2009 Cycle Tour - Mull, Skye and the Black Isle

This year's cycle tour was partly blogged as I went (only slightly successful, as internet access with my Vodafone modem was patchy and 2G at best).  For this writeup of the tour, I've updated the blog articles, and linked them to this article.

Day 1 - Tayport to Aberfeldy  In which we meet old friends, both expected and unexpected.

 

Day 2 - Aberfeldy to Oban  Lochs and mountains in  long haul of 78 miles, in startlingly hot conditions...

 

Day 3 - Oban to Tobermory  In which we change our plans a bit and don't visit Iona, but discover we have forgotten how hard the road from Salen to Tobermory is...

 

Day 4 - Ardnamurchan: Tobermory to Salen  In which we have another unexpected meeting in Ardnamurchan...

 

Day 5 - Salen to Broadford  In which we lament the "upgrade" of west coast roads and battle against winds in Skye...

 

Day 6 - Broadford to Lochcarron  In which we noodle round the coast and push the tandem up a hill...

 

Day 7 - Lochcarron to the Black Isle  In which we ride from coast to coast and visit a friend from long ago

 

Day 8 - Black Isle to Aviemore  In which we try (and fail) to follow National Cycle Routes 1 and 7 through Inverness...

 

Day 9 - Aviemore to Birnam  In which we decide that cycle routes may not be so bad, but that a bike with suspension would make them a bit more comfortable...

 

Day 10 -  Birnam to Tayport  In which we ride through familiar roads and successfully negotiate Dundee and the Tay Bridge...

 

We rode our usual Dawes Super Galaxy touring tandem.  This has been through the wars a bit over the 15 or so years we've had it (and in fact we may replace it with a new frame this year).  It performed excellently, except for gear issues on Day 4, which was entirely my fault for not setting them up correctly in the first place.  As usual, we carried camping kit as insurance against failing to find a B & B, but this time we didn't camp once.  Since this represents a significant proportion of our luggage, we'll probably not do that next year.  On the other had, the trusty Trangia cooker is invaluable for tea breaksand meals in the wilds.

I tried to blog while touring, and recorded our routes with a GPS datalogger.  This worked well, except for the day we rode to the Black Isle, when it ran out of juice before we finished riding.

An invaluable source of information about sites of interest in Scotland is the Undiscovered Scotland website. It's well worth looking up the areas you plan to visit - there's a useful map based navigation tool.  The Rough Guide to the Scottish Highlands and Islands (this link is to the edition we have, though check for the latest) is an excellent source of information, particularly on places to eat and to stay, and fits easily in a handlebar bag.  We previously had the Rough Guide to Scotland which is not nearly as good. 

For island hopping, the Caledonian MacBrayne website has timetables.  We generally make several crossings and find that one of the Island Hopscotch tickets are most convenient, and offer savings (e.g. the bike goes free).  On this tour, we bought Island Hopscotch #7, which covered Oban-Craignure, Tobermory-Kilchoan and Mallaig-Armadale.  We've never had problems getting on one of these ferries (the limits mostly affect drivers), and the CalMac staff are invariably helpful - it's always worth asking if they want bikes on first or last when they are loading the ferry.

A word on the National Cycle Routes.  On this trip, we made a conscious effort to make use of the Sustrans National Cycle Routes, particularly as they relate to negotionating thebusy and fast A9 trunk road.  In the past we've just avoided this road (mostly).  On this trip, we used Route 83 to get from Dunkeld to Ballinluig, and Routes 1 and 7 to get from the Black Isle to Inverness, and from Inverness to Ballinluig respectively.  In our experience, the signage (particularly in towns) is pretty poor.  Inverness in particularl is horrendous, with a requirement to push bicycles over busy dual carriageways.  We got hopelessly lost in Inverness.  Some of the purpose built cycle path sections are pretty crap, though much of the network uses less busy B roads.  On the whole, I prefer to be more in command of the routes I take, but that being said, the route 7 along the A9 is invaluable, and has some really nice wide sections as well a ridiculously narrow parts.

2009 Tour day 10 - Birnam to Tayport

Today's ride was on home turf, practically, as we were riding roads we frequented when we lived in Dundee for a decade.  We returned to Dundee via Caputh, Coupar Angus, Newtyle and Muirhead, followed by a frantic ride through Dundee to the Tay Bridge.  Because we reached Dundee around mid-day, the traffic was reasonably light, and we had no real issues.

35.64 miles; 10.7 mph ave; 27.2 mph max; 3:18:04; total distance 523.33 miles

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No Photos today!

Return to Day 9 - Aviemore to Birnam

2009 Tour day 9 - Aviemore to Birnam

We spent just about all of today on Cycle Route 7.  We had a few light showers between Aviemore and Kingussie, but really the day was dry with many sunny spells.

Setting out from Aviemore, we chose not to ride initally on route 7, as this would have added 4 or 5 miles - instead we chose a more direct B road.  Kingussie looks more like a "real Scottish town than does Aviemore - it has a main street lined with older stone-built properties.  Route 7 works pretty well as far as Dalwhinnie (notable mostly it seems to me for an elegant distillery building - and presumably the distillery within!). 

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From Dalwhinnie, the A9 rises to the Drumochter Pass, and I guess that there's just not much room for a major cycle route.  For most of the rest of the route as far as Calvine, route 7 consists of sections of old road (presumably older versions of the A9), linked by sections of purpose-built cycle path.  Both are variable in quality, and it remains to be seen how well they are maintained in future years.  The cycle path sections can be quite narrow at times. Overall, I'd say it wouldn't be a good idea to try route 7 here on a lightweight set of road tyres - our tandem was shod with invulnerable (touch wood) 32mm Schwalbe Marathon Plus touring tyres - and a bike with suspension would certainly ease neck and back ache!

The route moves pretty definitively onto regular B roads at Calvine - a short while later, we reached the House of Bruar old person's emporium.  here we stopped for lunch in the form of excellent mushroom soup.  And bought some presents for people.  Then it was off through the interestingly laid out Blair Atholl, which looks very much like a planned estate, then on through wooded countryside (we saw no red squirrels, alas) to Pitlochry.  By this stage, we'd pretty much decided to press on to Dunkeld.

As seems quite usual for cycle routes, it was rather difficult to spot sign for the continuation of route 7 in town.  Eventually, we did find one, a sign pointing us in the direction of Logierait (which lies between Ballinluig and Aberfeldy, and through which we'd cycled on day 1).  We took this road, which proved to be the most delightful section of road all day.  It took us up and down hills, past fields, woods and meadows, all the way down to the main road to Ballinluig.

From Ballinluig, it was back to the roadside cyclepath along the A9, ducking low hanging branches, until the route once again assumes a proper road, climbing up a fairly steep hill to descend once more into Dunkeld. We didn't see much in the way of B & B accommodation in Dunkeld, so we nipped over the bridge over the river Tay (designed by Thomas Telford) to Birnam, where we found a very pleasant B & B.  Once showered, we popped over to Dunkeld for dinner at the Atholl Arms Hotel.  Despite it's slightly shabby appearance, our meal was top notch, and thus fortified, we went on to explore Dunkeld.

In all the years I cycled around Dundee, I never looked around Dunkeld.  It turns out to have The Birnam Oak many interesting places to explore, from the cathedral by the river, to the restored housing around it.  The cathedral is still partly used as a church, and while we were their a bunch of trainee bell-ringers were getting their first try at real bell-ringing - most of the time they seemed pretty good, to my untutored ears at least.  Back over in Birnam, we went to look at the Birnam Oak, reputedly the last tree remaining from the original Birnam Forest, made famous by Shakespeare's Macbeth.  It's an impressively big tree, although it's so old it's held up by a variety of props (see picture to right).

It was with some relief however to finally hit the sack today, as my back and shoulders had really taken a bit of a pummelling steering the loaded tandem down route 7.  Still, from Birnam it would be a relatively short day's cycling to return to Tayport and bring our tour to a close.

72.19 miles; 10.8 mph ave; 33.5 mph max; 6:38:39; total distance 487.69 miles

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Photo Gallery (only two photos today)

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Jump to Day 10 - Birnam to Tayport

Return to Day 8 - Black Isle to Aviemore 

2009 Tour day 8 - Black Isle to Aviemore

On another fair day, we began by traversing the Black Isle, first through mixed arable farmland, and then mixed woodland.  This involved a surprising amount of climbing.  We eventually picked up cycle route 1 (for Inverness) at Munlochy.

This proved to be quite a circuitous route, and eventually led us under the A9 to cross the Kessock Bridge on a path alongside the northbound carriageway! Unfortunately, this deposited us in a huge industrial estate, among huge articulated lorries. We extricated oursleves by ignoring any cycle route signs, unfortunately, this led us to take cycle paths which required us to cross busy dual carriageways.

Eventually, we found signs for Route 7 (Pitlochry), which led us through suburban streets and up some very steep roads, eventually emerging near the Culloden Visitor Centre. This was a bit fraught due to the near complete inadequacy of the signage for the route.  We had a cup of tea in a pub just down the road from the Culloden Visitor Centre,which calmed our rather frayed nerves. From here, route 7 was reasonably pleasant, even if it involved considerable climbing. We stopped to visit the fascinating Clava Cairns, which are neolithic burial chambers.Clava cairn

This was a bit of a bonus, and the Clava cairns was not a site I'd heard of previously - we only came across them because of Cycle Route 7, so this warmed my opinions of cycle routes after the Inverness fiasco.  These cairns date to about 2000BC, and appear to have been used more than once - latterly, they acquired stone circles around them.  Two of the larger cairns have long entrance passageways that align with the midwinter sun - you can see one of these in the picture.

Pressing on, we reached the point where route 7 runs alongside the A9.  Here it becomes a mixture of cycle path and (largely disused) roads. This is a pretty good mix, although at one point, cyclists are required to cross the A9...

After rather more than 50 miles, we eventually rolled into Aviemore, and decided to call it a day.  We had originally intended to get as far as Kingussie (which it's probably fair to say is a rather more appealing town than Aviemore, but the route 7 and the shenanigans traversing Inverness had taken a bit longer than expected.

53.32 miles; 9.9 mph ave; 36.1 mph max; 5:22:17; total distance 415.15 miles

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Photo Gallery

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Jump to Day 9 - Aviemore to Birnam

Return to Day 7 - Lochcarron to Black Isle

2009 Tour day 7 - Lochcarron to Black Isle

Up bright and early, with lovely blue sky with puffy white clouds scudding across! Set off eastwards, initially flat, but then climbing through woodland, with plenty of rhododendrons.  After a while, we emerged onto rather bare mountainous landscape.

We reached Achnasheen at about 11.30am, and stopped at the cafe for paninis and tea. Pressing on, we eventually started a gentle descent through woodland. We were aware of big black clouds, and as we approached the main road to Inverness at Gorstan, we had the first proper drenching of the tour so far. It was fortunately quite short-lived, as the rain was pretty cold!

It was with some relief that we approached the Black Isle - it's a much gentler agricultural scene, and also, our destination was that much closer - an old friend of Carol's from the past. She was a most excellent host! [annoyingly, the GPS data logger ran out of juice during the day, so the map is incomplete]

59.68 miles; 10.8 mph ave; 36.6 mph max; 5:30:48; total distance 361.83 miles

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Only one picture in the gallery today:

Jump to Day 08 - Black Isle to Aviemore

Return to Day 06 - Broadford to Lohcarron