This is the first in a short series of posts in which I discuss my approach to training for cycle time trials. I find road cycling to be unsuitable for structured training sessions other than extended endurance sessions, due to a combination of climbs and descents (albeit pretty small around here), junctions, traffic lights and of course motor traffic. The exception to that would be the evening 10 mile time trials the club offers through the season, which provided an opportunity for riding at a high sustained pace for 20+ minutes.

In part 1, I’ll give a bit of background to the kit I use.

Support for Joomla version 3 ceased in August this year, and I'd been working on ensuring the three Joomla sites I maintain were upgraded to version 4 in advance of that. What I realised in doing that was the enormous amount of cruft I'd accumulated over the years, especially with the North Bucks Road Club website. One of the issues is always that of finding a sympathetic template, particularly where user access on mobile devices is concerned.

In which I test (and implement) some alternative wiring possibilities for SRAM eTap gear shifters

The SRAM eTap Aero groupset was released in 2015 with a version aimed at road bikes where the gear change controls were switches in the brake levers, and which communicated with the front and rear derailleurs via a proprietary wireless signal. For time trial bikes, the eTap aero was released, where switches mounted on the aero bars were wired to a "blipbox", which wirelessly relayed commands to the gear mechs. Typically, one would set up a pair of switches (the "blips") on the base bar and a second pair of switches (the "clics") on the ends of the aero extensions. The blipbox has four sockets, two for upshift and two for downshift - each clic or blip switch is connected via one socket. The blipbox also has some buttons for shifting. The annoyance there is that the size of the blipbox makes it difficult to tuck it away in the time trial frame.

In which I do yet another bout of TT bike fettling, this time to address the front end clutter.

The (possibly mad) plan for the P3C handlebar

Some months ago, I’d bought a secondhand 3T Aduro base bar (the same as came with the P5-Six). The original intention had been to replace the base bar on the P5. Unfortunately the four bolts holding the low extension/armpad mount to the replacement base bar were themselves seized. This appears to be a bit of a problem with these bars - my P5 has a set of Aduro bars in the low position, and one of the four screws holding the stem top plate was seized and I was never able to extract it.

This book is a nicely presented tome all about the American cycle pioneer Jobst Brandt. I'd long been aware of Brandt not only because I bought a copy of his excellent book on the spoked bicycle wheel (The Bicycle Wheel), which includes guidance on wheelbuilding, but though reading his old USENET posts on matters pertaining to bicycle technology. Many of those old posts have been preserved at Sheldon Brown's website (itself maintained some years after Brown died in 2008). Brandt was strikingly forthright and not shy in making his views known through these early internet posts. However, I'm getting a little ahead of myself here.

Hed H3 wheels are  probably Team Grumpy’s go-to wheel - they are pretty close to being indestructable (but not invulnerable) - they aren’t likely to go out of true as there aren’t any spokes to break or lose tension. 

In use, I’ve always found them to handle well except in the windiest of conditions (see for example the 2018 edition of the Duo Normand when I ended up using a regular spoked wheel). In comparison to very deep rimmed spoked wheels, they seem to be more of an all-rounder aero wheel for time trialling.

In which I review the power meters I've been using over the last few years. All of these seem to be accurate and consistent in their data. This is a brief review of the four systems I currently use - and to cut to the chase, of these four power meters, which would I recommend as a power meter on a new bike build?

Given that two of these power meters are discontinued, the choice comes down to the SRAM Red chainset or the Assioma Duo pedals, and from the viewpoint of easy transfer between bikes I'd recommend the Assiomas (which can also be bought in a version to be fitted to Shimano pedal bodies). I should add that all four of these power meters have been absolutely faultless in use.

A supremely comfortable saddle for touring use. Possibly my oldest bike component that is still in use (even if only occasionally).

During a recent garage clearout, I unearthed this saddle. It's clearly seen better days - the surface of the leather is a bit cracked and the rivets are a bit green! These photos were taken after I applied some Proofide.

It had been 5 years since we last packed for a Normandy holiday, including both the tandem and a solo bike. Since then we’d changed to a more modern Ford Focus, and I at least had a few concerns that all our stuff wouldn’t have fit inside.

I needn’t have worried.

In which I suffer a series of bike crises before even leaving the house, and have a lacklustre performance.

So as usual I started getting set up about an hour before I needed to set out for Astwood. When I came to pump the tyre up on the P5 TT bike, I found that the front wouldn't get up to my desired pressure, then the rear disk wouldn't stay inflated (I think because the valve core came a little loose). So I switched to the P3.